What makes quality body jewelry different
The metal touching the inside of your piercing matters more than the stone on top of it. Cheap body jewelry is the single most common reason a piercing rejects, migrates, scars, or never heals. At Apollo we only stock materials that are documented safe for long-term implant contact, because anything less is a problem waiting to happen.
The materials we trust are implant-grade titanium (ASTM F-136), solid 14k and 18k gold, and niobium. Implant-grade titanium is the same alloy used in surgical implants, it's nickel-free, lightweight, and exceptionally biocompatible. Solid gold from BVLA is mixed to a body-safe formula with no nickel and no plating to wear off. Niobium is inert and takes a beautiful anodized color.
Here is what to keep out of a piercing, especially a healing one:
- Surgical steel — "316L surgical steel" sounds clinical but contains nickel and is not implant-certified. It's fine for cutlery, not for an open wound.
- Externally-threaded jewelry — the screw threads sit on the outside of the post and drag across raw tissue every time it's inserted.
- Gold-plated or gold-filled — a thin gold skin over base metal that wears through, exposing whatever is underneath.
- Unmarked "hypoallergenic" jewelry — if a piece isn't marked with a real standard like ASTM F-136, "hypoallergenic" is a marketing word, not a guarantee.
Internally-threaded, threadless, and externally-threaded
How jewelry connects is as important as what it's made of. There are three systems, and we only carry the two safe ones.
Internally-threaded
The threading is machined into the decorative end, and the post is a smooth, polished cylinder. Nothing sharp passes through your piercing. This is the standard for quality body jewelry and what BVLA builds.
Threadless (press-fit)
The end has a small bent pin that press-fits into a hollow post, held by tension. Completely smooth to insert, easy to swap ends, and ideal for fresh piercings. Many of our most popular studs are threadless.
Externally-threaded (what we don't stock)
The threads are cut into the bar itself, so the rough threading scrapes through the channel on the way in and out. It's the cheap manufacturing shortcut found on mall and online jewelry, and we simply don't carry it.
Jewelry by piercing type
Different piercings call for different shapes. Our collection and the wider BVLA catalog cover them all:
- Flat-back / labret studs & "ends" — a flat disc on the back for comfort, with interchangeable decorative ends. The workhorse for ears, nostril, lip, and surface work.
- Seam rings, hoops & clickers — continuous rings and hinged clickers for helix, septum, daith, and lobes.
- Curved & straight barbells — curved for eyebrow and navel, straight for tongue and industrial.
- Navel / belly — curved barbells with dangles, charms, or fixed gem ends.
- Nipple — straight barbells and rings sized for proper healing and comfort.
- Nose — nostril screws, L-bends, and seam rings in titanium and gold.
Gauges and sizing basics
Body jewelry is measured by gauge (the thickness of the post, where a smaller number means thicker) and by length or diameter. Wearing the wrong gauge can stretch or pinch a piercing, and a length that's too long catches and irritates while one too short presses into tissue.
Your healing size is usually a little longer than your final healed size to leave room for swelling. Once a piercing settles, downsizing to a shorter post keeps it comfortable and reduces snagging. Guessing these numbers from a screen is exactly how online orders end up in a drawer, which is why an in-person piercings fitting is worth the trip.
Made to order vs. in-stock
Most BVLA pieces are made to order, hand-built in your chosen metal color, size, and stone after you place the order. That custom work typically takes about six to ten weeks, and the result is a one-off piece cut specifically for your anatomy. We also keep a rotating selection of in-stock ends and basics in the Apollo shop that can go in the same day. We'll help you decide whether to grab something now or commission the exact piece you have in mind.
Why buy from a studio, not a screen
When you buy from Apollo you get a complimentary in-studio fitting with a Fakir-certified piercer who measures your gauge and length, confirms the piece is right for your anatomy and healing stage, and seats it properly. No drift between "looked right online" and "fits my body." If you're ready, book a fitting and we'll handle the rest.
Frequently asked questions
What metals are safe for new piercings?
For a fresh or healing piercing, stick to implant-grade titanium (ASTM F-136), solid 14k or 18k gold, or niobium. Avoid surgical steel, gold-plated or gold-filled pieces, and anything externally-threaded or marked only "hypoallergenic." These materials are documented safe for long-term implant contact, which is what an open piercing needs.
What gauge am I?
Gauge is the thickness of the jewelry post, and most ear and facial piercings sit between 18g and 14g depending on the placement and who pierced you. The most reliable way to know is to have us measure your current jewelry in person. We do this at every fitting so you walk out with the right size, not a guess.
Can you size jewelry for me?
Yes. A fitting is exactly what we do best, measuring your gauge and the correct length or diameter for your specific piercing and healing stage. We'll also tell you when it's time to downsize from a healing length to a shorter healed length. This is included at no extra charge.
What is implant-grade titanium?
Implant-grade titanium is titanium certified to the ASTM F-136 standard, the same alloy used in medical implants. It's nickel-free, lightweight, and highly biocompatible, which makes it one of the safest choices for new and healed piercings. It's also anodized into a range of colors without any plating that can wear off.
How long does made-to-order jewelry take?
Most BVLA pieces are custom made to order in your chosen metal, size, and stone, and typically arrive in about six to ten weeks. The wait reflects genuine hand craftsmanship and a piece built to your exact specs. If you need something sooner, ask us about in-stock ends and basics that are available right away.
Can I wear it in a fresh piercing?
For brand-new piercings we'll guide you to implant-grade titanium or threadless pieces in a healing-appropriate length, since fresh piercings swell and need extra room. Many decorative gold ends are best added once the piercing has healed and settled. We'll map out a timeline so you know exactly when you can upgrade.
Do you fit jewelry I didn't get pierced with you?
Absolutely. You're welcome to bring in a piercing done elsewhere for a fitting, sizing, or a jewelry upgrade. We'll assess the placement and healing stage, confirm the right gauge and length, and seat quality jewelry safely. Book a fitting and bring whatever you're currently wearing.
